Music in Cape Verde, more than an art (which it is, and it is) is a vital necessity for its inhabitants.
If you travel to the archipelago and come back without listening to their music…, well, it makes no sense at all.
Today we are not going to show you the great icons of Cape Verdean music, such as Cesária Évora, Elida Almeida, Tito Paris or Mayra Andrade. Instead, we are going to tell you a little story we experienced on one of our trips to the archipelago.
Music in Cape Verde, beyond the big stars
We are located on the island of Santo Antao, on a Friday in October. After walking all day between Cruzinha and Ponta do Sol, we arrived at the Música do Mar guesthouse with the excitement of having one more adventure in our backpack. Our retina was still engraved with all the overwhelming landscapes that the day had left us. We deserved a relaxing afternoon with a couple of cold beers and a good dinner. So after a well-deserved shower, we went down to the terrace of the hostel ready to let the hours pass, one after another.
"A guitar, a cavoquinho and a couple of eggs made of coconut and stuffed with stones formed the perfect orchestra."
The terrace of the guesthouse was arranged at street level, in a corner and in front of the sea; a gift location for tourists and locals who were gradually taking possession of the tables and seats.
Weekends, even more joy arrives
It was Friday, and that, at the Música do Mar guesthouse, meant a night of live music for everyone present. A weekly appointment that filled the place and the street in front of it with popular Cape Verdean songs. The people in charge of the party were all relatives of one of the girls at the reception, who, for the love of music and Cape Verdean rhythms, came punctually every weekend. Anyone willing to spend a pleasant evening could enjoy an authentic experience to the rhythm of the morna, the funaná, the coladeiras or the batuque.
Music in Cape Verde, a legacy of the people
Sitting at the table and with dinner already ordered, the party began, the music and the improvised dances with more rhythm than we had seen so far. What a notion of rhythm and what hip movements the Caboverdia@s make! To the rhythm of a song by Tito Paris we began to dine on fresh tuna and a salad. Meanwhile, all the surrounding tables were getting full and a small crowd of children and tourists came to watch the revelry.
Four-string cavoquinho detail
A guitar, a cavoquinho (a small guitar with 4 strings) and a couple of eggs made of coconut and filled with stones. This was the perfect orchestra to set the mood for such a special night. We felt part of the moment and for a couple or three hours, the music brought us all together, making us forget the different origins of all the people who were there. Perhaps it was the universal power of music, which eliminates cultural and linguistic borders, and erases prejudices and mistrust…
We have rhythm, but we are light years away from these movements.
The night ended later rather than sooner and the Cape Verdean songs ended up mixing with other classics such as “Guantanamera” or “la Bamba”. We showed the locals that we Europeans can also have rhythm, although our hips are made of steel compared to theirs.
This is one of many stories, as music in Cape Verde is omnipresent in all the islands. While it is true that you will find more live shows in Mindelo or urban areas, it will not be at all strange to enjoy music in Cape Verde in any locality.
